A Guide to Technical Layering: Cold Weather Systems

LAYERS, LAYERS, LAYERS

You have surely heard the term and practiced the act in the context of textiles. Something as simple as throwing a jacket over a tee or adding tights under your snowpants are good examples of how integral layering is in our day to day dress. Past that, why is it important and what is the point to building a solid layering system? Think of your layers as a micro-shelter. Your own personal eco-system that impacts how you experience temperature, moisture levels, and physical output in any given environment. At its core, an effective and appropriate layering system will help regulate temperature, keep you dry, provide full range of motion, and protect you from the elements; keeping you warm and comfortable. A good system means more fun and safety outdoors and more time connecting with what you love.

A NOTE ON FIT

Fit is the unsung hero of a functional and enjoyable system. In particular, how each garment fits together in the system as a whole. For example, it should go from least room to most room starting next to skin and stacking out. This is also important for effective insulation and range of motion. Layering provides insulation by catching the warm air your body produces and holding it between each garment. A good layer will maintain a consistent and balanced temperature during varied levels of output, retaining or expelling heat as needed. What if you run cooler or warmer in general? There are an incredible amount of options at a variety of costs. If you run cooler for example, start with a wool or heavyweight base and favor a solid down option with good fill power and loft. Build a system to help protect that insulation with a solid hardshell. If you run warm or fluctuate temps, consider adding a softshell jacket or pant to the kit for some added breathability. You don’t always need a hardshell, so prioritizing breathability and range of motion over full weatherproofing might be better for a sunny, high activity situation. Be creative with personalizing your kit. You are the one moving and grooving in it so go with what feels best for the given environment and what makes you excited to put on. In all of this remember, at the end of the day a mean enough stick can poke a hole in it and it won’t work (until you patch it). So, if nature is saying ‘not today’ then try again on another. In a similar vein, especially in cold environments, always carry an extra layer for insulation in your pack. An extra warm and dry option is a lifesaver if things go sideways.

LET'S BUILD

What constructing a layering system might look like from base to outer and what to keep in mind.

BASE/FIRST LAYER

POSITION
Next-to-skin

PURPOSE
Provides warmth and wicks moisture away from the body. UPF protection. Consider lighter weights for more breathability and heavier weights for more insulation.

MATERIAL

Wool/Merino Wool - retains warmth when wet, anti-microbial properties that deter odor (Merino: softer on skin and less rigid than standard wool options)

Synthetic - Fast drying, light, and moisture wicking, less prone to wear

Blend/Hybrid - Fabric blend comprised of synthetic and natural fibers

MID/INSULATION LAYER

POSITION
Insulative layer that can be worn over a base, under an outer, or as a stand alone.

PURPOSE
Provides warmth but also disperses heat during stretches of increased activity. Moves moisture off the base layer staying warm and dry. Wide variety of highly versatile options available; think environment, use case, and weight when making a selection.

MATERIAL:

Fleece - Heavy knit; comfortable, warm, air permeable. Lacks protective qualities as a stand alone layer in rough conditions.  

Down - Best warmth to weight ratio for insulation, light and extremely packable, best suited for dry/cold environments. Looses insulation when wet, damp, or too compressed.  

Synthetic - Retains warmth when damp or wet, offers light weather protection, thermoregulating, more abrasion resistant but less compact and heavier than down.

SHELL/OUTER LAYER

POSITION
Outermost layer, roomiest and can comfortably fit a few layers under.

PURPOSE
Weatherproof protection against snow, rain, and wind. Keeps the wet/cold out and dry/warmth in. Consider use case and environment; would hardshell, softshell, or extra insulation best suit the conditions?

MATERIAL:

GORE-TEX - A fully wind and waterproof membrane used in products ranging from footwear to jackets to gloves. Breathable, durable, ideal weather proofing in any environment. GORE-TEX is the weatherproofing technology utilized in products and refer to themselves as an ‘ingredient’ brand. In context, they are not the product maker as much as they are the main component in which a product is built around. For example a 3L GORE-TEX jacket consists of 3 layers, the GORE-TEX membrane being sandwiched between a backer and face fabric layer.

Hardshell - Wind and waterproof material, non-insulative, highly weather protective. Good for rain, snow, and wind.  

Softshell - Lightweight, breathable, stretchy, weather resistant. Great for high energy activity. Shields from wind and light precipitation.  

Insulated - Weatherproofed layer with additional down/synthetic insulation. Best for cold and heavy conditions.

Parka - Built for winter. Usually hooded, weatherproofed, and insulated. Often longer in length, geared for warmth and elemental protection.

A NOTE ON USEFUL LAYERING

You may have heard the saying “be bold, start cold” uttered at the start of a trip or day out. This beloved saying is not meant to promote discomfort but rather to consider your activity output as you start moving. Like ‘working up a sweat’ in the gym, you get warm when you move so wearing just a mid and base layer might be cold when you are standing still but once you start moving up and over varied terrain you’ll start heating up; maybe even dropping down to a base layer and softshell bottoms for example. Unlike a nice warm gym, however, sweating in these types of contexts can quickly become a risk, draining heat out of the body when you start to cool again. This is where shedding or adding layers can really impact your time out. Do be bold and start cold AND bring a nice warm outer layer for when things cool off. It’s all about balance, warmth, and staying dry. As always, your body temp is relevant to you, so keep in mind starting ‘cold’ will look different for different people.